El Escorial is an attractive small town with up-market houses and plenty of restaurants. It came into being as a result of Phillip II's decision to build a monastery/palace on a small plateau under the mountains. We made our way up to the monastery following the sign indicating "Monastery". It took us there via a winding road, which we later found was intended to be the route for cars, not pedestrians. We got there though.
The "monastery" complex is in fact large and imposing, incorporating a basilica, chapter house and library as well as courtyards. It couldn't only be for humble monks. It more aptly reflects P-II's vast ego methinks. We only got to see a small number of the rooms - those with lots of religious paintings. We didn't find them that good or that interesting. Some of the facility is still in use, but we saw no monks. No photography again, darn it.
The most interesting rooms were those displaying the original construction tools, esp. huge scissor hooks for lifting stone slabs, and models of cranes, etc. Also a large hall with one side facing a large courtyard, the other entirely covered, floor to ceiling, with frescoes depicting glorious battles of the reyes catolicos. The hall we liked the best was the library, also frescoed, mainly on the ceiling, and displaying beautiful illuminated books, as well as globes and "music of the spheres" devices.
Also interesting was the private apartment of Phillip II, notable for its relative simplicity, small bed and tiny chamber pots. He actually died in this bed. There were also some really good wooden inlaid doors and frames. There was a panel in the door depicting a scene with perspective - no mean feat in my book.
The basilica was a big space with two main features - a large golden four-panel altar piece and gloriously painted ceilings. It was bone-chillingly cold in there (we were in short sleeves). You could imagine the monks freezing their socks off.
As is our fate, part of the complex - the main crypt - was closed for renovation, but we got to see the infantas crypt. The monastery is surrounded on two sides by a formal garden featuring elaborately patterned box hedges. The garden has a great view over the plain below and one could see the outer suburbs of Madrid in the distance. On the horizon we could see four large towers that Joan said we had passed on our way up.
We mustn't forget to mention the plaza on the other two sides of the complex. On thinking about it, these are probably the largest open man-made spaces we have encountered in our travels.
After our tour we were famished - it was 3pm, so we sought out a café/restaurant, of which there were many. We chose one that appeared to offer good value for money and enjoyed what was probably the best meal we have had so far. We have come to the conclusion that we may have to pay more than we would like to get an acceptable standard of meal. This one was €16.50 (AUD 24) per person for three courses and a carafe of very nice Beaujolais-like wine. In the past we had been aiming for €10-12 but now we can see why we had no satisfaction at that price level.
After the meal we strolled around the upper town, looking for a good view of the monastery, and eventually being rewarded. We quick-marched our way back to the station along a wide tree-lined pedestrian avenue, dead straight and about a kilometre in length.
On the way back we looked out for the four towers. The rail line seemed to travel 270° around them. They are in fact quite stunning, very modern office blocks at Chamartin at the edge of the city. We were amazed to see that Chamartin station, Madrid's second largest, seemed to be completely deserted, while Atocha is a beehive of activity.
At the end of the day we are lying on our beds but hearing the sounds of many human voices drifting up from street level, we feel connected to the rhythms of life in Madrid
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