Before that we quickly revisited Plaza Oriente in the hope of catching some photos of the palace bathed in brilliant sun. By the time we got there a few minutes later I just managed one distant shot before the clouds rolled over. We waited for a while hoping for clear patches, but gave up after ten minutes or so.
On the metro, we exited at a stop three stations from Opera, putting us on a major avenue with a great number of imposing and impressive buildings.
From there we managed to walk in the wrong direction, but not too far before we realized our (my) error. It was a short walk to the Thyssen-Bornemisza.
This unprepossessing new public building houses a private collection of the German Thyssen family. It's not as big as the two we visited yesterday, but what a collection! In the medieval/Renaissance section were an astounding number of really good paintuings, most by artists unknown to us. We were just blown away. Unlike other museums, you get could get up close and personal with most works to examine the detail - there were very few barriers, although some were under glass. Despite late arrival (we had brunch at 1pm in the museum café), there were surprisingly few people about, as many were probably in the temporary Monet exhibition.
My favourite work was a small diptych by Jan van Eyck depicting two marble statues of the virgin and the archangel. They had an uncanny realism and 3-D effect that was startling, especially considering the era. Joan's favourite was a medieval birthing scene supposedly of St Anne giving birth to the virgin, by one of these unknown artists. She was also pleased to see a small Hans Holbein portrait of Henry VIII which seemed very familiar to us.
Having learned our lesson yesterday, we skimmed through the remaining galleries of post-Renaissance and modern art as my feet and back were suffering. There were some very good pieces by Picasso, Miro, Dali, et al.
On our way back, we had another pickpocket experience as we boarded the metro. This time a group of three short women (Joan thinks a mother and daughters team) attempted to press in front of me to get in the carriage, which attempt I unchivalrously foiled - the young woman seemed surprised by this. At the same time Joan had recognized the woman as having a suspicious appearance, as she had appeared to be sussing us out while we were waiting for the train. Even though Joan was now on high alert, the woman still managed to unzip her handbag under the cover of a coat carried on her arm. Fortunately, Joan noticed this and quickly snatched the bag around to her other side. With much grumbling the team got off at the next station to look for other targets.
We went out for dinner at about 8:30pm, but it was such a beautiful evening that we joined the many locals in their Friday night passeo, heading over to the Plaza Oriente yet again. We basked in the gorgeous evening sunligh, walking through the square and the palace gardens. This is the first time that Joan has been able to enjoy a stroll arm-in-arm with Lothar without it being a route march (I had no idea :). On the cathedral side we were able to view the large palace forecourt. We may be able to get in there during daytime hours.
We did have dinner, in a Fresco buffet literally around the corner from our hostel. There is an excellent choice of salads which we were absolutely craving at this stage. The LP gives it the Good Housekeeping seal of approval.
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