Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Day 10 Dunes to Meknes

This has been the best day so far, on a number of fronts. In fact it has been an outstanding day!

We got up at 5:10 after not sleeping too well. By 5:30 we were heading to the lobby and our driver was waiting for us with a torch to guide us out of the dark building. He drove us north, along the western flank of the Dune. The full moon was still in the sky just above the western horizon, and its light still dispersed widely giving a melancholy feeling. We drove along myriad trails across the open landscape of the "black desert". After 20 minutes of driving I wondered where the heck we were going, but then we actually turned into the dunes, along the flat pans between the dunes. Not very far though - less than 200m.

We loaded up and set off up the dunes. Our guide/driver then remembered that we should be going barefoot, so we took off shoes and socks and he carried them back to the Land Cruiser. Suitably unshod, we set off. The sand was soft to the touch and quite cool, but not uncomfortably so, presumably because there is a lot of air in the sand. 


We walked a hundred metres or so and stopped, waiting for the first hint of sunrise. Even without direct sunlight we could see the orange colour of the sand. When sunrise over the dunes was imminent, we walked up a bit further to see more of the terrain. We had stayed lower to avoid the wind higher up. Sunrise wasn't all that remarkable, but as the sun got higher more of the terrain features became apparent. We shuffled higher for ever better views, including out over the black desert, so called because it is covered in black stones, the wind having blown all the brighter sand and loose earth away.

At our highest ascent we could also see the wells used by the surrounding Kasbahs and also a few camel trains carrying other sunrise seekers. After yomping down a small dune or two we returned to the car and proceeded back, visiting first the local palmerai, which contained, as we learned, plots used by the local village for growing their produce. Big frogs live here. Then it was off cross-country to the lake, roughly several kilometers directly west of our Kasbah, where we observed flocks of flamingoes, with a few ducks mixed in.



Time was pressing so we had a quick breakfast, packed and hit the road at 9:15, with ~450 Km in front of us. This may not seem like much in Australia or North America, but here that journey took 9 hours incl. one hour for lunch and only minimal photo stops.


Despite the agony of not being able to stop to take photos regularly, this has been the most amazing, beautiful, inspiring and enjoyable drive I have ever undertaken. At least 250 of the Km were through the Atlas Mountains and we were at elevation for most of that time. The scenery was just remarkable, and it kept coming - we just couldn't believe it. Some parts were reminiscent of the American west (which I have never seen). The road was always good but what was really remarkable was the "big sky" effect that the terrain afforded. We were always in valleys or gorges, some relatively narrow, a kilometer or so wide, others four times that.

An indispensable component of the exhilaration we felt was the total change of weather / atmospheric conditions. The contrast to the previous days couldn't have been more stark - the air was clear, with brilliant sunshine - no overcast or clouds until late in the day. This made it possible actually to see things and appreciate them. I was a man reborn.

In these ideal conditions, even the towns and cities we passed through seemed to look more attractive. In reality I think they were just cleaner and better laid out. They were maybe less exotic but more appealing - hard to describe what I mean.

On our way through the mountains we crossed three passes. Two were 1905 and 2187 metres, the last one didn't say. On descending from the last one everything turned suddenly to green, where yellow, red, orange and grey had previously prevailed. I should mention how red some of the rocks/soil really were.

Finding our way into Meknes proved to be a challenge as there are no street names to help identify our position on a map. It was done by dead-reckoning, or whatever you call following your nose. We only asked directions twice to find the Lalla Aouda car park. I had expected a multi-story building, but the parking consisted of spaces around the perimeter of a large rectangular square. Locals immediately came forward offering their expert services to get us to the Riad but we relied instead on a phone call to get someone from the Riad to pick us up.

The chap came within the advertised 10 minutes and we proceeded to carry and wheel our luggage behind him. A large part of the passage was through the narrow lanes of the souk. It looked much further on the map but wasn't really that far. I was just concerned about our bags being wheeled through the muck of those lanes. Before we knew it we had arrived. As I was about to enter through the door, I very nearly knocked myself out on the low door frame. My Tilley hat was both my saviour from serious head wounds and also at least partly the cause of the accident in the first place because it restricted vision.

Unfortunately that put me in a bad mood, and even the obligatory welcoming tea didn't fix it. My mood grew darker when we were shown our room, through a flimsy door off the central dining area - not much privacy. However, dinner almost fully restored my spirits.

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Day 9 Todra to Erg Chebbi

Had a very good long sleep last night, although my mouth felt very dry. We got away at about 9:15 and we filmed a few sessions along the road on the way back to Tinerhir. Once on the open road again, the same conditions as on previous days prevailed - hazy, dusty and very warm (but probably not above 30°C). I am kicking myself that I chose not to bring along one of my electronic thermometers. It'll be on the list for next time.

The bloke at Dar Ayour had made a point of directing us via Erfoud rather than Errachidia, which I had intended anyway, as it is the shorter route. Interestingly, when we got the turn-off in Tinejdad, the road sign at the fork that indicated Errachidia straight ahead and Erfoud to the right, some local mongrel had defaced the word Erfoud to make it illegible. 


A short way down the road was Rissani where we stopped despite Joan's wish to the contrary. We did a walk along a few back alleys and then had a Coke (yes!) before continuing on our way.






We had a pizza lunch in Erfoud, pizza Reine, this time with visible bits of meat. Quite good actually - it was served on a large 10" square plate with bits of Moroccan salad in each corner. The meal really revived me as I had been fading fast.


For a while nothing changed then civilization died out and we started to see sand drifting across the road. It was just then of course that we came up behind a small convoy of German campervans. Overtaking them under these conditions was interesting, reminding me of my drive from Peace River to Yellowknife in July 1969.

We had no trouble spotting the prominent hotel sign by the side of the road and drove on dirt for 1.5 Km to the Kasbah Mohayut. I should not fail to mention that the road conditions were generally good - nothing to daunt an Aussie at least. The hotel has a courtyard for passenger vehicles at the front where we parked. Strangely, it felt cooler once I got out of the car. It seemed to be a large and busy place with lots of people about. 



We checked in and agonized about the dune tour, feeling that prevailing conditions were unpromising to say the least (howling wind, haze and dust). We had debated the wisdom of following through on this along the way, and although I was vacillating, Joan was firm in insisting that we hadn't come this far not to see the dunes. The staff informed us that the tour leaves at 5:30am. More discussion ensued and in the end we decided to go for it.
 


Our room is large and much cooler inside, a blessed relief. We felt positively cold after returning from our swim in the pool. It was my intention to have a walk in the dunes, so I went out for a recce. Having just mounted a small dune I was immediately greeted by a local. I had no doubt he was selling something but I engaged him in conversation about the weather, specifically when the wind would die down. He indicated in about another 40 minutes. So I went back to our room for a short rest before changing and heading out again.


He was still there of course but I evaded him and trekked around, along and across a few small dunes. At the edge of the "Dune" there are many small dunes surrounding completely flat areas. The flat bits were collecting areas for the detritus of hommo vagabondus - plastic bags, drink bottles, etc. While on the dunes I observed a group of three 4WDs hooning around. They came to stop in one of the flat bits where there was an abandoned dwelling, completely hidden below the crest of the dunes. In other flat bits were round concrete towers about 2m high which I took to be wells servicing the string of hotels at the wedge of the Dune.

I was particularly delighted to observe a number of black beetles active on the leeward surface of the dune. They move quite rapidly and change direction often. When they reached the crest they turned around immediately.



Dinner was a buffet of the usual tagine sort of dishes. Plentiful at least. Afterward, we sat on the terrace for a bit observing the peace and quiet and the full moon.

Monday, March 29, 2010

Day 8 Ouarzazate to Todra Gorge

Didn't sleep so well as I experienced alternating hot and cool spells that had nothing to do with the ambient temperature, but rather with my cold/flu. We had gone to bed at about 9:15 - really early for us. That not withstanding, we had an excellent stay at Dar Bladi. Breakfast on the terrace was great - we were able to observe the storks on the minaret at reasonably close range. The views across the lake to Quarzazate were also good at this time of day.


Departure at 9:15 was close to on-schedule and we skipped stopping in Quarzazate for money or petrol. The Logan is very economical - after over 400 Km the tank is still half full. We won't tempt fate tomorrow though; we will fill up in Tinerhir.



Our first stop was Skoura to get some cold medication and to buy some rose water that the LP said the town was famous for. This was a lie, it comes from a town further along the road.

Today the atmospheric conditions were much the same, with much haze and dust on our right (south east). On the left we were closer to the hills and could see them more clearly. It's difficult to put into words what the landscape is like, and we didn't stop to take many pictures. It is a stark and inhospitable place, but yet you see shepherds, always by the roadside, herding their sheep. I think it's because the ditches at the side of the road concentrate the precipitation that causes stuff to grow that the sheep can eat.

In Boulmandes du Dades we detoured into the Dades Gorge and we're glad we did - it has spectacular landforms. We tried to get a meal at two places but no-one was interested so we headed back to Boulmanes and had a very nice if pricey meal at a restaurant on the heights on the far side of town. We ate on the terrace overlooking the valley - a great spot.



For most of the hour preceding Boulmanes we passed through a seemingly endless urbanization along the river - more than 20 Km of it. We are getting the message - this is a very dry country and people live where there is water. It's that simple. We have no idea what they all do there (the population is quite significant).

We eventually got to Tinerhir, but missed the turn-off to the Todra Gorge first time around. Because the road is along a river course, naturally it was built up. Google Earth does not always do this justice, especially not to the steep valley. We found our lodgings at Dar Ayour quite easily, After settling in and parking the car off-street, we head off on foot to see the gorge. Unlike Dades, this really is a gorge, perhaps 500m long with sheer vertical cliff of 100m in many places. Lots of locals about too, washing cars and bicycles. Washing self or laundry in the stream is forbidden. The water, while clear, had that slightly milky consistency of alpine streams. 




Our room is small, with access to the bed only from one side. The staff are friendly. AND, I was able to have a beer while doing my computer chores. Small can though, only 25cl. Like all Moroccan houses, the lighting is abysmally weak, and I am getting eye strain as darkness descends, so that's all for tonight.



Dinner was couscous and it was very good. Once out of Marrakech, the meals are much better. This evening's was included in the €50 room rate - pretty good value.