Day 8 Ouarzazate to Todra Gorge

Didn't sleep so well as I experienced alternating hot and cool spells that had nothing to do with the ambient temperature, but rather with my cold/flu. We had gone to bed at about 9:15 - really early for us. That not withstanding, we had an excellent stay at Dar Bladi. Breakfast on the terrace was great - we were able to observe the storks on the minaret at reasonably close range. The views across the lake to Quarzazate were also good at this time of day.

Departure at 9:15 was close to on-schedule and we skipped stopping in Quarzazate for money or petrol. The Logan is very economical - after over 400 Km the tank is still half full. We won't tempt fate tomorrow though; we will fill up in Tinerhir.

Our first stop was Skoura to get some cold medication and to buy some rose water that the LP said the town was famous for. This was a lie, it comes from a town further along the road.

Today the atmospheric conditions were much the same, with much haze and dust on our right (south east). On the left we were closer to the hills and could see them more clearly. It's difficult to put into words what the landscape is like, and we didn't stop to take many pictures. It is a stark and inhospitable place, but yet you see shepherds, always by the roadside, herding their sheep. I think it's because the ditches at the side of the road concentrate the precipitation that causes stuff to grow that the sheep can eat.

In Boulmandes du Dades we detoured into the Dades Gorge and we're glad we did - it has spectacular landforms. We tried to get a meal at two places but no-one was interested so we headed back to Boulmanes and had a very nice if pricey meal at a restaurant on the heights on the far side of town. We ate on the terrace overlooking the valley - a great spot.

For most of the hour preceding Boulmanes we passed through a seemingly endless urbanization along the river - more than 20 Km of it. We are getting the message - this is a very dry country and people live where there is water. It's that simple. We have no idea what they all do there (the population is quite significant).

We eventually got to Tinerhir, but missed the turn-off to the Todra Gorge first time around. Because the road is along a river course, naturally it was built up. Google Earth does not always do this justice, especially not to the steep valley. We found our lodgings at Dar Ayour quite easily, After settling in and parking the car off-street, we head off on foot to see the gorge. Unlike Dades, this really is a gorge, perhaps 500m long with sheer vertical cliff of 100m in many places. Lots of locals about too, washing cars and bicycles. Washing self or laundry in the stream is forbidden. The water, while clear, had that slightly milky consistency of alpine streams. 

Our room is small, with access to the bed only from one side. The staff are friendly. AND, I was able to have a beer while doing my computer chores. Small can though, only 25cl. Like all Moroccan houses, the lighting is abysmally weak, and I am getting eye strain as darkness descends, so that's all for tonight.

Dinner was couscous and it was very good. Once out of Marrakech, the meals are much better. This evening's was included in the €50 room rate - pretty good value.